Hyderabad / May 28 – May 29
It was time to get back. I wanted to drive all the way back to Hyderabad but we started late around 10:30 AM from Ooty. In addition to that we have this soft rule which prevents us from driving after dark. We have driven enough in the dark and it’s just not enjoyable.
May 28, 2016
Started at 10:30 AM because of delays caused by multiple factors. Route via Gudalur-Mysore was the obvious choice. It took quite sometime to drive down those hairpin bends. I stayed in 2nd gear mostly as oncoming cars were being driven unnecessarily fast for this road. Probable weekend mania and people getting restless to reach Ooty.
Roads were smooth mostly till Nanjangudu. Between Nanjangudu and Mysore there is still a 3-4 KM stretch which is still a work in progress. Mysore ring road is mostly a useless road despite being six lane. No flyovers at interchanges and countless famous barricades. Still it’s much better than going through Mysore. NH-275 Bangalore-Mysore again doesn’t feel like a highway. Passes through many densely populated areas. Urgent need for a few bypasses on this stretch.
All was well, till we hit the NH-4 after exiting NICE Ring Road. It’s a maze with only a little signage. A smart city planner will put directions for Hyderabad at every interchange or flyover entry because he wouldn’t want people bypassing the city accidentally getting lost and contributing to the already monstrous traffic.
We took this route to bypass Bangalore. Not sure if that’s the best way. Traffic in our direction was not much but the oncoming traffic jam was like a few kilometers at least. There is a flyover on Railway track which is still a work in progress.
Once we crossed Bangalore, it already started feeling like home. But it was already 5:00 PM or so. We were targeting Kurnool earlier and Ananthpur was plan B. After another hour, there was no plan A and we decided that we’ll find a hotel in Ananthpur and stay there irrespective of how it is.
We reached Hotel Masineni Grand and was totally surprised to find this amazingly neat and clean upmarket hotel at a really affordable price. This was probably the best value for money stay for the entire trip.
They have a regular restaurant and a pure vegetarian restaurant.
May 29, 2016
There was no rush really. We don’t have a single traffic signal between Ananthpur and home Yeah, beat that! We drove real slow, enjoyed the rain drive for a while as well and were home by 3:00 PM I guess. But I guess adventurous stuff just follows us. We had this right before we hit the NH-44 in Ananthpur.
That’s all for this adventure. Well, we had a time of our life driving through the Western Ghats, crossing the borders of Tamil Nadu & Kerala. We transcended through Valleys, Tea Gardens, Forests, Sanctuaries, Caves, Waterfalls, Lakes, Dams & what not….
We never knew that such a small part of India can have so much to offer. This trail or region is ideal for making roadtrips across months as one can find one or the other thing at every 150-200 kms. We believe we had the most of this region but still as a traveler if you feel you have some better recommendations & suggestions from you past experiences, do enlighten us!!!!
Feel free to make suggestions, recommendations & give feedback in the comment box to make our travel experiences better.
May 23, 2016
We checked out around 10:00 AM and started for Ooty. We had been warned several times about the hairpin bends and steep inclines on Ooty road. I didn’t ignore them completely but didn’t take them too religiously either. The warning/advice was something we needed. This stretch is not to be taken lightly. We encountered two totaled vehicles on the way. There are a total of 36 hairpin bends between Masinagudi and Ooty. The steep inclines at the hairpin bends add to the difficulty level. We were in first gear on most of these. The car was not feeling all that good even in second gear on some of them and I didn’t want to take any chances.
All hairpin bends are equipped with convex mirrors for enhanced visibility. Also, the bends are numbered so that you can monitor your progress.
It took us around 1.5 hours to reach Ooty. Then started the real trouble. It felt like high altitude version of Bangalore without potholes. Too many people, too many cars and super confusing roads. To add to the trouble, Google maps trolled us like a boss. It took us into some real narrow lanes. We had to finally call the home-stay owner to guide us on phone. Another interesting thing that came out of all this experiment was how your perspective makes you its slave. The narrow lanes where I was having a tough time reversing my Honda City with all the reversing aid, a Tata LPT 1612 full size truck was unloading cement. How did he even get there! How is he ever going to take a U turn to go back. Anyways, philosophy aside, it took us close to 1 hour to locate the home-stay.
Since we were ultra frustrated after the navigational mess, we opted for pizza home delivery. Ate and slept. Not much to talk.
May 24, 2016
While searching for places to visit, all popular places within Ooty were immediately crossed because we didn’t want no more trolling. I came across this place marked as 43 Hairpin Bends on Google maps. I felt like that road was calling me We had to go there.
I always wanted to drive on a road with lots of hairpin bends but I never had the time or car to take up the trip to Gata Loops. Yeah, sad story Anyway, the deal was done and we were going.
On the way we crossed Lovedale. A few kilometers after Lovedale, we were greeted with mind blowing valley views. The best we have seen so far.
When you are in any other part of the country and you read Major District Road on Google maps, you imagine a 1.25-1.5 lane wide road with potholes and sky high speed breakers and other death traps. That’s not the case in TN. MDRs are better than some state highways in other states.
We went all the way down till Geddai and covered 38 of the 43 bends. Now that we didn’t have no business in Geddai, we turned around to drive back to Ooty. We traveled through ~110 hairpin bends in total. There was another set of 7 bends and a set of 34 of which we only covered 10 I guess. I was all smiling. We almost never had motion sickness but wife was feeling a little dizzy and she didn’t speak at all on the return journey.
Word of caution: If you are in Ooty for a short stay and you don’t like to kill time, avoid this. It’s just a drive at the end of the day. Definitely not recommended if you passengers prone to motion sickness.
We stopped at Chamaraj Team Center while returning. Nice little place. They offer Ice Tea and Black Tea. No milk tea available though.
May 25, 2016
It was a little tricky to come up with places to visit when you are not going to visit what everyone else is visiting. So, we had lunch, road around a little. A super intelligent cop advised us to not go to Botanical gardens. May god bless him and all his forthcoming generations.
We tried The Sidewalk Cafe (inside Hotel Nahar) for lunch. Horrible place. Waiter looked like totally high. Slow service & bad food. BTW other two restaurants within Hotel Nahar has really good food but they get very crowded.
After the messed up lunch, we decided to drive down to Chamraj Tea Center again. I really loved that road but it’s a super 21 KMs away from Ooty. Few pics from the day.
A school compound in Ooty. Zoom in and notice the number of buses parked there. Now imagine all those buses on Ooty roads twice a day. Now imagine that this is just one of the schools in Ooty. Feel better.
May 26, 2016
We decided to drive down to Ketti Valley as we read that it has amazing valley views right off the Coonoor road. That wasn’t the case really. We had better views from the Chamraj factory road. While returning we stopped to checkout this place called The Culinarium. It’s run the company that manufactures needles. They have a continental cafe and a shop where they sell DIY kits for embroidery, knitting and stuff like that. Wife immediately liked it and purchased some stuff to make some other stuff as well.
The cafe gets really crowded though. Nothing much other than that. We took a few pictures on our way back to Ooty.
May 27, 2016
Since we liked the culinarium much and didn’t get to spend much time there earlier, we decided to have lunch there. BAD IDEA SAAR! Pathetically slow service. All that glitters is not gold. They have like 15+ staff to wait 4+3 tables and over the counter sales. All of them are running around constantly and nobody is getting what they ordered. Not sure what they are running for. It took us 1.5 hours for us to actually have the lunch. As soon as we finished the lunch, wife hit the DIY craft store again where she purchased some more stuff to make some more other stuff. I have no idea what she purchased. While she shopped, I killed time teasing other shoppers’ kids.
After finishing the shopping business, we drove down to Coonoor and take a round of the city. It felt like we were inspecting the roads. Nice roads BTW. Oh and we accidentally came across the Kapoor’s house they showed in the movie Kapoor and Sons.
After getting home, we both got real upset stomachs. Bad food at the Culinarium I guess. And perfect timing too. I need to drive like only 850 KMs over the weekend to get back home. We had light dinner. I even had to take half day off from office as I was coming down with fever as well. The first aid kid that we always carry saved the day (or night). I was all sound when I woke up next morning. And that’s all for Ooty.
To be Continued…..
Exploring Western Ghats : Part 9 : Kalpetta Wayanad
Kalpetta, Wayanad / May 16 – May 20
After a fun weekend full of some really nice drives and staying closer to nature, it was time to move closer to towns in search of the mighty 3G. We decided to stay in Kalpetta as we weren’t sure of connectivity elsewhere.
May 16, 2016
It was an election day so we anticipated that most public places will be closed to promote voting and drove straight to our home-stay. On the way, we noticed that many voters were carrying saplings. Later we raised this with our home-stay owner and he told that Wayanad district collector has come up with this out of the world brilliant idea of giving away free saplings to all voters who are voting for first time or above the age of 75. Why god don’t send more people like him/her to this planet??
May 17, 2016
We decided to go to the famous Edakkal Caves. Drove straight to the location right after lunch. Turns out we were late to the party. They had changed the timings to prevent any accidents due to bad daylight in the evening.
After this flop plan, we decided to drive to Wayanad Museum. It’s not a regular sized museum. More like row-house but they have some interesting artefacts on display. Since it doesn’t take much of your time, you might as well visit it (9:00 AM – 5:30 PM).
Next, we visited the Karapuzha Dam. It turned out to be really nice place for an evening walk if weather permits. Not much crowd, cool breeze and vast panoramic views for your eyes.
May 18, 2016
We finally gathered courage to go for the Chembra Peak trek to see the famous Heart Lake. You can take your vehicle all the way to the point where you start your trek. There will be Jeep drivers on the way who’ll warn you about real bad road ahead. They will try to trick you into hiring the Jeep to avoid any damages to your car. They are partially right. If you are the proud owner of a car with low ground clearance, love your car like real bad and are 4-5 people, you might as well consider the Jeep option. Your car underside will register scratches and noise will not be pleasant.
Remember that our ride for this trip was Honda City 2009 model which is world famous all over India for it’s bad ground clearance. For the onward journey, we were 2+1 (including guide) and I managed to pass the road with only teeny tiny scraping noises. But on return journey, we were 2+2 (guide + we gave lift to another forest personal whose only other option was to walk a KM all alone). Boy, I never scraped my car like that Those forest people were kind of worried about all the noise but me and wife were all smiles. This was the new limit we had pushed our vehicle to. We just love it when machines take abuse and still serve their humanly owners. Also, note that the car has registered 1,10,000 KMs on the odo. We get worried only when we go over a speed breaker and there is no scraping noise.
For reference, people with Swift, Ecosport, i20 had taken their cars to the last point.
A section of road to Chembra Peak. It gets worse once you pass the forest check post where you obtain a ticket for trekking and also pick your guide up.
Trekking fee is 790/- per group (750/- trek + 40/- Camera). You can go for a regular visit which is cheaper but I guess you are allowed only till a certain point (not too sure though). With 790/-, you get a dedicated guide who will be with till you return and get back into your car. The trek length is ~3KM and it gets real tough and steep at times. Not a problem for young adults but I’ll not recommend this for elders no matter what. It took us 1.5 hours to go up as wife wasn’t able to keep up (we are in late 20s). Getting down was easier but still took ~45 minutes.
Keep in mind the famous quote before you decide to go on this trek.
“Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.” – Ed Viesturs
Now, lets see what the real deal is.
It was evident that we weren’t going to get back in time to start my work. So, I took a leave from office. BTW did I mention that we had excellent Idea 4G at the top with download speeds of 10 Mbps? You just wish you got that kinda speed at your home in your megacity
May 19, 2016
May 19 was election results day and there were a zillion crazy people on the roads. Regular laws were not applicable. We decided to stay at home. We went out only for lunch and dinner. We almost got stuck in a few hours long traffic jam while trying to take the regular route for lunch. Managed to take a U turn in time.
May 20, 2016
After losing two days to election and another to changed schedule, we started early for Kuruwadweep. It’s an island within a river and is accessible by a boat. Not much to do on the island as such. People usually take a bath in a stream where water looks really dirty. Avoid on weekends as there will be many times more people than this island can really handle. It gets crowded even on weekdays.
The sailor. They steer the boat using ropes and they park it like a boss with superb accuracy. I can’t even park my car properly with power steering, reverse camera and what not.
It’s not as bad as I have described it but we are not happy when we encounter exploitation of nature. We’d rather not go there and contribute the the overall load.
For next part, stay tuned.
Exploring Western Ghats : Part 8 : Palakkad Wayanad
Started around noon from Munnar. Totally forget the mega mess that Aravikulam National Park entrance is. Got stuck in major traffic and wasted roughly 45 minutes there To restore peace of mind, we went to the same river side . Such a nice place and everybody wants to stand in queue at Aravikulam National Park instead. Sad.
After spending about half an hour by the river, we get going. Nothing significant for the rest of the route except that it was getting crazy hot as we moved closer to the plains. Also, the election campaigns were at it’s peak as it was probably the last day of campaign. But we were totally stunned to see one of the best disciplined traffic in India so far. Here is a video for your reference. It was almost a kilometer long jam and no one moved out of line except 2-3 autos.
May 15, 2016
Palakkad is a beautiful little town with pitch black roads with brightest white markings almost everywhere. It’ll be such a nice place to live only if it wasn’t that humid hell. Sun felt harsh even at 8:00 AM. Since we had ample time at hand, we decided to visit the Palakkad Fort. We were totally surprised when we reached there. It’s a small fort that houses a temple and a state prison now. There is a trench all around for protection. That was a first for us.
After a quick visit to the fort, we started for Wayanad. Roads were smooth all along and were under development wherever they weren’t smooth. Not many food though. We stopped at this place called Priya Supermarket and Food Court (not on the map yet). Decent place.
Our home-stay manager recommended that we visit Pookode lake on the way. We did go there but Sundays are not the days to visit tourist places. I keep forgetting that all the time. Somehow managed to get out of the mess and went straight to the guest house. Took some rest and visited a little waterfall. Peaceful place. One of the best sleeps I had in recent times.
My wife had never been to Munnar before, so it was obvious choice. We drove to Munnar from Vagamon via Idukki Dam route. Beautiful scenery all along the way. We tried really hard to locate the point from where you can get to the Dam but all in vain. Google Maps didn’t help and we didn’t care to ask for directions. So, we drove straight to Munnar. Not many food options on the way. So, eat when you see an ok place and don’t wait for that perfect restaurant.
Last week, I didn’t do much exploring in Munnar. It was more about long drives. Since, it’s more fun to just drive in these hills, we decided to do that. We drove all the way to Top Station with only a couple stops in between.
We didn’t visit Top Station as I learned earlier that it should be visited only when clouds are on to make climbing those stairs worth it. Instead we drove further to the Pambadum Shola National Park. Shola forest is like a rain-forest but much smaller in area. It’s dense and wetter than surrounding areas. We drove on this circuit passing through villages Vattavada and Koviloor. Few video recordings from earlier solo drive but the route was same.
Heavy logging between Top Station and the National Park check post. I think it’s a part of the regular process. Once the trees are mature, they need to be cut down to make way for new trees. No logging inside the national park though.
On this route, there are little villages and scattered houses all over the place. Almost no traffic. The entire route has amazing valley views.
It started raining sometime when we were returning from Koviloor. Rains feels even better while in the dense forest. You can hear it all around you. By the time we reached Top Station, clouds have owned the valley completely. Visibility was reduced to hardly a few meters.
This day turned out to more adventurous then we originally planned and with just driving component.
May 11, 2016
Since we didn’t stop anywhere on the way to Top Station yesterday, we planned to take the same route again with stops at scenic spots on the way. This was the fourth time I was driving from Munnar to Top Station and trust me, excitement was still the same as the first time. Pics ahead.
Next we stopped by the Botanical Garden (near Elephant Park). It’s an indoor version of Rose Garden but smaller.
May 12, 2016
It was mutually (?) agreed that we won’t go to Top Station again. At least not during this trip So, we decided to drive to the other side of Munnar (Kochi Highway, Chithirapuram etc).
We also visited Cinnamon Garden on Munnar-Kochi Highway. It’s a small garden where they have many fruit/spice/vegetable trees in house and they take you on a tour of the same with a guide. They charged 200/- for two person. We didn’t find it too exciting but if you are into botany and all, you might as well go there.
May 13, 2016
Since it was our last day in Munnar, we went for the mandatory Lakkam Waterfall Snan. Munnar visit is not complete without taking a snan here irrespective of the season or weather. They have limited lockers there for keeping your stuff and you can buy cheap bathing clothes if you forgot to bring some along.
For next part, click here.
Exploring Western Ghats : Part 6 : Munnar- Kochi- Vagamon
On Monday morning, I started for Munnar. It’s 40 KMs drive from Marayoor. I was already getting hungry for the overdose of the famous tea gardens. I did get a glimpse of them yesterday while on my way to KDHP factory for a tour but that wasn’t enough. Stopped at the Lakkam Waterfall on my way. Lesser number of because of Monday but still significant. So, didn’t go for a bath but just clicked some pictures and moved on to Munnar. As I wasn’t too sure about the 3G coverage in Munnar so booked a real cheap hotel in city center but just for today. Turns out Munnar has mind blowing 3G coverage all around the city and at the outskirts as well if you don’t go too far.
After reaching the hotel, had lunch at a Rajasthani restaurant. If you see the number of Rajasthani/Gujarati/Marwadi restaurants in the town, you can’t really tell it’s Kerela. Marwadis have owned this town completely As the hotel was reserved only for today, I started driving towards Kochi looking for a cheap hotel (remember I am lonely soul on the run) away from town but still with 3G coverage. 10 KMs out and couldn’t really find anything with good reviews. Either good hotel or no 3G. Then moved towards Chithirapuram, same scene plus potholed road spoiled it all. And to add to all these worries, the absence of food options. After driving for 2-3 hours, came back to the hotel and extended the stay till Friday. Room or hotel was not an issue but traffic noise was really bad. The only thing working in my favor was that I was not getting burnt in the Hyderabad heat. I guess that was the major reason for this trip anyways.
Pics will tell the rest of the story.
Crazy queue at Aravikulam National Park. Turns out people wait in this queue for 2-3 hours. If you are not a crowd lover, please stay away from this place like forever.
It was not a very happening week as such. Drove on the Top Station route twice. Rained every time. Couldn’t ask for more. As it was the last week of travel, I was getting worried about getting back to Hyderabad. My wife was scheduled to arrive in Hyderabad on Sunday. So, plan was to return to Hyderabad by the time she arrives. But the thoughts of Hyderabad heat were giving me nightmares. Called up wife and asked her to come to Kochi instead where I’ll pick here up and we won’t return to Hyderabad till summer ends. Well, she was getting fried in Ahmedabad weather and was very happy to hear this offer. I rerouted her flight to Kochi and now she was scheduled to arrive in Kochi at noon on Saturday. Perfect plan.
Kochi-Vagamon-Thekkady / May 7 – May 8
May 7, 2016
On Saturday morning, started for Kochi around 9:30 AM. The Munnar – Kochi highway is two lane road throughout. NHAI is a doing a really good job in reducing the blind spots and widening the roads near Munnar. On some of the sharper turns, the roads are almost 2.75-3 lanes. The till Kochi is in good condition and is green all the way. Reached Kochi airport around 1PM. I was driving all slow and taking breaks because I had time to kill and didn’t want to spend that at the airport. Pics and videos for the rest.
Periyaar Bridge. Somehow I find these types of bridge beautiful. Modern bridges are functional without any aesthetic appeal.
Kochi Airport now officially tops my favorite list. It feels like a resort. BTW if you spend 15 minutes in the sun here, you’ll know why this airport is run completely on solar energy.
Remember it’s a weekend, so internet is of no real use and we need to run away from the crowd. Hence, we go Vagamon. We took the regular Muvathupuzza-Thodupuzza-Kanjar-Vagamon route. We were just falling in love in Kerela. Smooth roads, tastefully designed mansions and bungalows all along the way (especially around Thodupuzza). Only drawback of the entire route is that it’s crazy humid. All is well as long as your stay in your car. The last leg of this route (Kanjar-Vagamon) is a narrow village road and quite steep but all green and scenic. It’s even better around sunset. Pics ahead.
May 8, 2016
Beautiful Sunday morning. A little warmer than Munnar but there is no crowd here.
We spotted this lovely bird family at the guest house. Hungry kids in the morning are difficult to handle.
We were totally clueless about what to visit and do. So, we hit the road in main Vagamon town direction to visit some places. We got lost in the greenery and next thing we know is we ended up on some random route to Thekkady.
We ended up taking this route. Which is not even a major road. But we didn’t mind it and continued further to Thekkady.
Oh BTW, Thekkady is a horrible place to visit on weekends and that too in peak season. If you live in Bangalore and want to experience Thekkady, please visit Silkboard Junction at peak traffic time. A million cars and buses packed up at the entrance to the lake and a zillion speed breakers on just 2-3KM road. Oh and steep entrance fee of 140/- for car and just two passengers. On seeing the cars, we immediately took a U turn and ran away from that place like crazy.
We had lunch at Grand Thekkady in the town and started for Vagamon via NH-220 (new NH-183/Kottayam highway). Beautiful road. Smooth, green and being widened. Same approach here like road outside Munnar. Blind spots being removed/reduced. This turned out to be a much better road than the village roads we took earlier. Tea gardens all the way. Pics ahead.
We reached Vagamon around evening. Pleasant weather. We wanted to go to the suicide point (just for a visit) but there was some scuffle in progress. So, we proceeded further to Tea Lake Boating point which we missed earlier in the day as it was hot back then. It’s sort of a virtual lake among the tea gardens but really nice place if weather is favorable. Paddle boats, kayaking etc. No motor boats though. It’s not large enough to ride a motor boat. We went for the paddle boat (200/- for two if I remember correctly). It was fun.
By the time we were done with boating, there were dark clouds building up. A heavy rain was evident.
It was at that time, this amazing idea struck my wife. We must go for Kayaking. I rushed to the ticket counter to get the tickets while wife rushed with camera and stuff to store them in the car so that nothing gets spoiled in the rain. I asked for the tickets and the person there pointed towards the clouds and shouted maḻa, maḻa, maḻa. maḻa means rain in Malayalam. He was surprised that I still wanted the tickets.
By the time I returned with tickets, it already started drizzling. People aborted the rest of their boating plans and immediately rushed to their vehicles. We wore the life jackets quickly and in no time we were back in the lake, this time on a Kayak with no roof. The next 20 minutes we spent kayaking will be cherished for life. It rained like crazy and we had all the lake to ourselves. Too bad that we couldn’t capture any of those moments but as they say, the best moments are to be lived and not to be captured (I am not sure who said that though).
We got drenched like crazy, drove back to our home-stay and that’s all for the Vagamon.
May 21, 2016
Woke up at regular noon time, had lunch and started for Masinagudi. Superb NH-212 till Sultan Bathery. Then we took the state highway to Gudalur. The road is good all through. Roads in both Kerela and Tamil Nadu are of superior quality compared to their neighbors. But roads in Kerela are functional while in Tamil Nadu they come with certain aesthetic appeal. That extra stress on white markings even on the not-so-important roads makes them much more enjoyable.
From Gudalur, we took NH-181 (old NH-67) till Thepakku where we turned on to a really narrow road (more like 1.25 Lanes wide) to Masinagudi. Drive slow on this road and do know that two sedans can’t cross each other on this road without one going slightly off the road.
Beautiful NH-181 runs through Mudhumalai National Park. Speed breakers are annoying but they are a necessity given the number of animals they have here.
Reached our guesthouse at around 4:00 PM. Took a little nap, played a little badminton but wind was too harsh. So, just killed time with a little walk. And some lady suddenly shouted, Māṉ, Māṉ, Māṉ!! Māṉ a Tamil word means Deer. Turns out there was herd of spotted deer right outside our guesthouse. That was slightly unexpected. It refreshed memories of our trip of Bishnoi village near Jodhpur. Spent a lot of time clicking and filming that group. They were a little shy but not much.
We had too much time on hand. So took a video as well.
Masinagudi is a village, small town at best if you stretch it a little. There is absolutely nothing to do here other than to just relax at your guesthouse or go for an evening safari. That’s it. Restaurants are hard to find and the ones that are there score real low on hygiene. The only hygienic place we could find was a CCD ~5KMs towards Ooty. Also, Masinagudi is hot while the sun shines. We spent all our afternoon at CCD and ate a lot of stuff there. Plan was to kill time till 4:30 PM before we go on the safari.
At 4:30 PM, we started for Masinagudi and went towards Singara Dam. We knew there are no places to visit there but we just wanted to drive around. Singara Dam is closed for public and you have obtain permission from Chennai to visit it. It’s a nice drive nonetheless and there are grass fields on the way you can stop for a family picnic. Only issue is that you can possibly become a Sloth Bear’s lunch while you are having your own lunch Yeah, this is what we got on our way back to Masinagudi!
Next, we headed to the regular safari route which is a road with perfect tarmac all the way. You don’t need to hire a Jeep for this. There are many Jeep drivers around Masinagudi who will trick you into hiring their services. Only advantage is that compared to a sedan, you’ll have open views and you’ll sit much higher which will again result in enhanced views.
This is one of the few safaris where we actually saw wild-life. We haven’t been to many but most of rip offs. We spotted a herd of elephants, peacocks and deer. Didn’t get good pictures of the elephants as I didn’t want to get out of the car at no cost. Angry elephants get real crazy angry.
When we returned to the guesthouse, it turned out that we (along with another family) were the only people who were staying the night. There were like 10 cars last night. Most people come to Masinagudi around Saturday noon, take the safari, stay the night and go back or to Ooty.
Even though there is not much to do here, I’ll still go back for the small town feel. And this is a place which you can definitely visit on a weekend.
Marayoor is ~40 kms away from Munnar, one of the most popular tourist place in Kerala. This place is not as famous as Munnar, nevertheless has beautiful destinations to be explored having national parks, waterfalls, forests & villages.
After reaching my homestay I opted to go for a ride to the nearby places with the caretaker of my homestay. Turned out to be a good idea. We went to Annakotai Park.
This park has some ancient burial sites. Well they were unusual because in Hindu culture we have the practice of burning the dead bodies rather than burning them (this part of India is Hindu dominant area, no offense intended to any other religions) but I was surprised to find that these were Hindu burial sites. That’s intriguing !!!! Oh my country has so many mysteries !!!!!!
After visiting these ancient burial sites, we went to nearby Sandalwood Forests. And they are all around. Its one of those precious herbs & medicines India produces & is famous for since ancient times. The purest form of Sandal is extracted from these trees after 150 years. Yes, it takes so long for the Sandal to be actually therapeutic & medicinal. Now you can imagine about the ROI and get an idea why sandalwood products are so damn expensive. Well of course the pure organic ones.
Over the Sandalwood forests, I got to see a beautiful sunset from the hills. What else could have been the perfect closure for the day.
It was a beautiful Sunday morning. Breakfast done and we (me and the caretaker) started off to explore the nearby high altitude village Konthaloor. This place is really nice for people who love nature (especially flowers and fruits). So many of them and of different kinds. And to my surprise I also found the local jaggery manufacturing unit. If you ever come across such unit on your way do spare some time to visit it & understand the process. Its really interesting & speaks a lot about our culture & manufacturing prowess. Moreover, as you move across different regions in India, the process gets different & is adapted as per the geography of that place, which makes it even more interesting & intriguing.
If you are an Indian one will know what significance jaggery has in our culture. Its an important ingredient of our kitchens used in our sweets, gravies, confectioneries & what not. Jaggery & its byproducts like sugar has been celebrated as panch amrit in our culture along with milk, honey, ghee and curd. A Panchamrit is an offering (prasad) offered to God & devotees after any prayer or traditional rituals. I will share the pics of the unit that I come across. And if you are interested, the workers will be more than happy to explain you the process.
Apart from this Jaggery manufacturing unit I also got a chance to see amazing flowers & fruits of the region and trust me, they are ample.
Lakkam Waterfall & around
After the Konthaloor nature drive, my caretaker took off and asked me to proceed further with a guide. We went to a KDHP tea factory for some demo but it was closed because it was labor day. We headed back to Marayoor. On the way, guide suggested that we stop at Lakkam waterfalls but looking at the number of vehicles parked on the road, I immediately declined and we proceeded further to Marayoor.
Gauging my ‘run-away-from-crowd’ attitude, guide suggested a secret stop on the way where we can go down to the river and have a peaceful time. All in. Turned out to be a good decision. How good it will be justified by the pics below.
Park you car here and walk down to the river. Be careful and don’t kill yourself. Stones may be slippery at times.
Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary
In the evening, I opted to go for a forest trek in Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary (6 KMs down from Marayoor). The trek cost is Rs. 250/- per person. A guide takes you through the forest and on the way you can sweat yourself out, pass by the ancient burial sites, have a look at the ancient mural paintings, beautiful forest views and some wildlife if lucky. The trek lasts 3-3.5 hours and difficulty level is easy-to-moderate. Bring a bottle of water and carry the empty bottle back with you.
Since nobody really cares to go for a forest trek on foot these days, I was the only one. Some pics.
That’s all for Marayoor and surroundings.
To be Continued ……
Exploring Western Ghats : Part 4 : Amravathi Dam : A small wonder on Kodaikanal-Marayoor Weekend Roadtrip
Today was a weekend, It was time to say goodbye to Kodaikanal & run away from claustrophobic touristic spots to a less crowded town out. Destination was Marayoor, Kerela (40KMs from Munnar towards Annamalai Tiger Reserve).
The route of choice was TN-MDR-170 (Kodaikanal-Perumal Malai-Palani).
My first attempt at working all night, touring all day has been a grand success so far. Thanks to the rocking BSNL 3G. BTW, do you know that I carry 4 sim cards and a data card all by different providers whenever I am travelling. So, having internet is of utmost importance to me to be able to work. If I don’t have internet, there is probably nobody who has internet in my 500 m radius at least
This road is way more beautiful compared to Dindigul-Kodaikanal but it’s a really narrow road with deep valleys on the side. At times, it really becomes difficult to pass a bus. It becomes wider as you move away from Kodaikanal. There is a 4-5KM stretch which is bad and has large but not so deep potholes.
If you see my previous posts, you will realize that I always enjoy discovering or at least exploring new places along the way. May be they are not that inviting or famous but as a traveler who is driving almost all the time, finding these small places on the go gives a sense of pride to a traveler’s ego (only people who travel extensively can understand what that ego is like :-).
I have this affinity for visiting dams. For a country like India which is agriculture oriented & for a person like me who hails from family of farmers, exploring variety of dams & reservoir systems that this country offers with its vivid engineering always intrigues me. I could have driven all the way to Marayoor directly, but I decided to drive down to Amaravathi Dam. I knew that there will be hardly any water but then I thought water-less dams have never hurt anyone. So, why not. Turned out to be a good decision.
I’ll let the pics do the talk for the rest of this visit.
As mentioned earlier, I didn’t expect much of water here. May be because it was summers or because of the ongoing drought situation all over the country. The largest wild breeding population of crocodiles in South India lives in this reservoir. The broad-snouted mugger crocodiles also known as marsh crocodiles and Persian crocodiles, are the most common and widespread of the three species of crocodiles found in India.
Of course I don’t have photographs of them. Thank god for that!
Overall this place could be missed on the way if one has an itinerary that has more famous & worthwhile places to visit but if exploring new things on the way excites you, then this place could be considered.
After visiting Amravathi Dam, I continued to Munnar. Here is an important alert, especially for those who are driving to Munnar. The Tamil Nadu forest guards at the first check post are totally hungry for bribe. They don’t mind asking for money. Was never asked for money at any of the Kerala forest check posts. Beware of them & gear up with your negotiation skills because you might need them very much if you are taking this route.
Reached Marayoor around 2 PM. For this week, my homestay was Sailsbury Manor. It’s perfect for that long stay kind of thing. It’s not that exotic sought after tourist hotel so might not be recommended for people who are planning to visit Marayoor as a weekend getaway. But certainly people who drive & travel for long will be able to appreciate the beauty & comfort this place has to offer. I will share some pictures of this homestay for you to decide.
That’s all for now. In my next Blog post, I will be discussing my week long stay at Marayoor.
For people who have been born & brought up in Northern Plains of India & were totally obsessed with 90’s Bollywood songs in their childhood, visiting Southern part of India with its lush green Tea gardens, Hill stations, Pine tree forests, Nilgiris etc is almost like a fantasy come true. What these places must like be, has always fascinated us.
Kodaikanal, one among many famous tourist destinations of South India has always been on the bucket list. But my heart cries out when all that you find at such places is tourist crowd, traffic jams, jam-packed parking lots, litter & anything & everything that could be qualified as an assault on nature by human beings.
Nevertheless, Kodaikanal was still a sweet surprise provided that I was in Chennai’s out of the world humid weather yesterday. Icing on the cake was little drizzling while I was still looking for my home-stay. After taking lunch and a little bit of sleep, I went for a drive around the Kodai lake in the evening. Again, I was shocked to see the traffic jam and crowd. (May be because it was a weekend) It felt like I got teleported to Bangalore. I somehow managed to secure a parking for my car. Tried to take a walk along the lake but it was a total mess. A zillion people, horses, bicycles and what not. I immediately left the place and went back to my home-stay. Peace and world order restored.
My homestay in Kodiakanal was at Symantac Homestay. Again a blessing for travellers like us who wants to stay away from city crowd & closer to nature. The homestay had quite amazing views from its balcony.
Since it was a Monday, I was expecting lesser traffic and that was the case indeed. I tried to go around the typical Kodai tourist circuit but there were still more people everywhere than I like. I think that’s the best part about roadtrips. You can still enjoy the drive even if tourist circuits disappoint without compromising much on the beauty of the place around. And that’s what I did. So, I just drove around, had lunch and came back to my home-stay. On my drive, I managed to capture some beautiful landscapes in Kodaikanal.
It was my 4th day in Kodaikanal. Time to keep aside the reservations regarding tourist crowds as well as traffic jams & do some sightseeing. Tourist mode was invoked and I was determined to visit at least a few places. Luckily not too much crowd.
Since I was sure that I don’t want to go to the Kodai lake itself, I thought of driving to a far away place called Mannavanur (~40 KMs). It has a lake as well. And I must say that this was a well thought & well timed decision. It fulfilled my criteria of a secluded less crowded place, ample natural beauty, small villages around & a nicely paved road to enjoy my drive. I thoroughly enjoyed my day trip to this place & would recommend same to the people who like to travel & drive for the sake of natural beauty rather than to check-in at the typical tourist circuits. I got to capture some amazing views along the way while driving.
Below is the Boating complex at the Mannavanur lake. You can drive only up to here. No vehicles allowed inside. From here, it’s a ~500 meters walk to the lake.
Once inside the complex, this is what you get to see
And this is what you get to do at this little peaceful lake. A ~20 minute coracle boat ride for ~100/person. Well, this is a must-do if you ever visit this place. No other flamboyant cruise or ship can give you the experience this small humble coracle boat can give. Whenever you are in a coracle boat, please, please ask the rider to make it go round like crazy. Thank me later.
On my way back to Kodaikanal, I just stumbled upon this small & pristine village called Poombarai. The views that this village gave was a perfect closure for the day trip. I will let pictures do the talking.
And that was all for my Kodaikanal stay. Overall a wonderful place if you manage to stay away from crowd. But this is true only for travelers like me who are always trying to get rid of crowd. Otherwise this place do host some typical tourist places like Kodaikanal lake, Pine Forest, Pillar Rocks, Shembaganur Museum of Natural History and many others which are worth a visit at least once as recommended by our fellow travelers. I know it’s not possible for all folks, but please try to avoid this place on weekends in peak season. Well, that’s actually true for tourist places all over India.
I stayed in Kodaikanal for the entire week (April 24-29) & now its time to drive to Marayoor. As mentioned in my earlier thread, since I don’t work on weekends I shuttle between my destinations on weekends because of the ample time available. I will be discussing about my Kodaikanal – Marayoor roadtrip in my next blog post.